Huwebes, Abril 12, 2012
Christian Dior Journey from New Look to Modern
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Following at least a year of speculation, French fashion house Christian Dior finally announced April 9 that Belgian creator Raf Simons has replaced John Galliano because the label’s creative director, with all the former Jil Sander designer telling The brand new York Times’ Suzy Menkes he could be aiming for a “very modern Dior” as he presents his debut line at Paris Couture Week this July. Though the designer adding which he plans to “also look back” and take inspiration in the 1947-1957 period of the style house, Relaxnews considers the label’s past creative directors in addition to their contribution towards the Dior aesthetic.
1947-1957
Christian Dior
The label’s founder and namesake heralded what became called the New Look in 1947 as he presented an especially feminine collection covered with long flowing skirts, tiny waists and soft shoulders, which provided a stark contrast towards the slinky silhouette with the 1930s. Top clients included Marlene Dietrich and also the Duchess of Windsor, while today’s stars always embrace his ladylike designs -- Natalie Portman wore a red polka dot high fashion creation conceived by Dior in 1954 to the year’s Academy Awards.
The label’s founder and namesake heralded what became called the New Look in 1947 as he presented an especially feminine collection covered with long flowing skirts, tiny waists and soft shoulders, which provided a stark contrast towards the slinky silhouette with the 1930s. Top clients included Marlene Dietrich and also the Duchess of Windsor, while today’s stars always embrace his ladylike designs -- Natalie Portman wore a red polka dot high fashion creation conceived by Dior in 1954 to the year’s Academy Awards.
1957-1960
Yves Saint Laurent
Before founding his namesake maison in 1962, Yves Saint Laurent achieved fame as Dior’s successor, together with his debut show in 1958 adding a feeling of youthfulness towards the brand having a softer interpretation from the New Look. While later experiments with hobble skirts along with a beatnik aesthetic didn’t drop so well using the press at that time, Saint Laurent left his biggest mark with all the trapeze dress he showcased in 1958. Using its free-swinging shape, the loose-fitting style was obviously a stark contrast to Dior’s cinched-in creations.
Yves Saint Laurent
Before founding his namesake maison in 1962, Yves Saint Laurent achieved fame as Dior’s successor, together with his debut show in 1958 adding a feeling of youthfulness towards the brand having a softer interpretation from the New Look. While later experiments with hobble skirts along with a beatnik aesthetic didn’t drop so well using the press at that time, Saint Laurent left his biggest mark with all the trapeze dress he showcased in 1958. Using its free-swinging shape, the loose-fitting style was obviously a stark contrast to Dior’s cinched-in creations.
1961-1988
Marc Bohan
Bohan continues to be longest-serving couturier at Dior thus far, and although his creations were more conservative compared to those of his predecessors, the designer ensured the maison remained one of many world’s most popular with top clients including Bette davis and Princess Grace of Monaco. Certainly one of Bohan’s most acclaimed collections was the Fall/Winter 1966 line, having its tweed coats, fur trims and long black boots inspired through the movie Doctor Zhivago.
Marc Bohan
Bohan continues to be longest-serving couturier at Dior thus far, and although his creations were more conservative compared to those of his predecessors, the designer ensured the maison remained one of many world’s most popular with top clients including Bette davis and Princess Grace of Monaco. Certainly one of Bohan’s most acclaimed collections was the Fall/Winter 1966 line, having its tweed coats, fur trims and long black boots inspired through the movie Doctor Zhivago.
1989-1996
Gianfranco Ferré
The very first non-French creator on the helm of Dior, Italy’s Gianfranco Ferré was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault to exchange Bohan, and his eclectic collections brought a lot of differing elements towards the Dior aesthetic including a dandy influence to Renaissance shapes, though it wasn’t until the appointment of Galliano in 1996 the label would come back to its most pioneering roots.
Gianfranco Ferré
The very first non-French creator on the helm of Dior, Italy’s Gianfranco Ferré was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault to exchange Bohan, and his eclectic collections brought a lot of differing elements towards the Dior aesthetic including a dandy influence to Renaissance shapes, though it wasn’t until the appointment of Galliano in 1996 the label would come back to its most pioneering roots.
1996-2011
John Galliano
Combining Dior’s fondness for femininity using a strong theatrical influence, British designer Galliano embraced Kabuki styling and gave the style house a more distinct aesthetic, notably together with his flamboyant high fashion shows. His designs were embraced by everyone in the late Princess Diana to actress and fashion maverick Tilda Swinton, who wore an enormous fruit-printed Dior gown for the 2001 Cannes Film Festival.
John Galliano
Combining Dior’s fondness for femininity using a strong theatrical influence, British designer Galliano embraced Kabuki styling and gave the style house a more distinct aesthetic, notably together with his flamboyant high fashion shows. His designs were embraced by everyone in the late Princess Diana to actress and fashion maverick Tilda Swinton, who wore an enormous fruit-printed Dior gown for the 2001 Cannes Film Festival.
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